|
53 LED CUBE Controller
for PIC16F688
|
 |
|
Now available from the
on-line store
Short kit includes
all parts to build working cube (excludes main cube
LEDs) |
Description
Do a search on YouTube and
you'll turn up literally dozens of video clips of LED cubes,
small 3x3x3 cubes, bi-colour, RGB and mono cubes, amazing
16 x 16 x 16 RGB cubes. However, very few show you how to
make one and provide the firmware.
The cube described on this
page uses a 5 x 5 x 5 matrix of single colour LEDs. This is
a good size to experiment with as the number of LEDs
required at 125 keeps the cost down, doesn't take too long
to assemble and just fits onto a eurocard sized PCB. The
power requirement is under 1 amp and the use of just one
colour keeps both the hardware construction and control
software fairly simple.
The project includes a
ready to program HEX file with some demo cube animations and
also the source code. The firmware implements a simple
macro
drawing processor command set so if you've got some
programming skills you can create your own animations for
the cube.
Although the project on
this page uses a PCB, the original prototype (see below) was
constructed on a prototype pad board so if you're not able
to make your own PCB it's still possible to make this
project yourself. (we've now had some PCB's
manufactured - you can buy one from the
on-line shop )
Schematic
Circuit Description
The LED cube is made up
from 125 LEDs arranged into 5 layers of 25 LEDs each. The
display itself is multiplexed so instead of requiring 125
connections it requires one to each of the five layers and
25 to each LED in a layer making a total of 30. The cube is
refreshed by a software interrupt routine with each layer
active for 2ms, so the entire cube is refreshed every 10mS
(100Hz). This results in a display with no visible flicker.
Only 8 I/O lines are
needed to control the LED drivers for the cube which allows
a tiny 14 pin PIC
16F688 microcontroller to control the whole cube. This
micro has an internal 8Mhz clock and 4Kwords of program
memory.
Each of the LED layers is
arranged in a 5 x 5 matrix and controlled by a transistor in
an emitter follower configuration connected to the LED
anodes. When the respective layer control output from the
PIC goes high the base of the transistor is held at +5V and
the emitter sits approximately 0.7 volts below this. The
transistors used are BC637 NPN transistors, if an
alternative is used it should be of similar specification,
have an Ic rating of at least 1 amp and check the pin out.
The cathodes of the LEDs
are connected to IC2 & IC3. These are STP16CP05 low voltage
16-bit constant current sink drivers. The LED current is
set by a single resistor connected to the RSET input
of the IC (pin 23). The 680R resistor gives a LED current
of ~28mA; this resistor can be altered to vary the current
supplied to the LEDs ( consult the
datasheet before altering the value of this resistor).
The LED driver supplied in the 555FSK kit available from
the PIC projects store uses the
alternative CAT4016 LED driver. This part uses a
different ratio for the current mirror that is used to set
the LED current. From 08/10/2009 the RSET resistors supplied with the
kit are 1K8. If you want to alter the LED current it
is calculated as Iled = 50 x (1.2 / RSET)
|
One layer of the cube
 |
One column of the LED cube
 |
The advantage of using a
constant current sink driver IC's is that almost any LED can
be used and the supply current remains constant regardless
of the LED forward voltage. If the output current does need
to be altered, it only requires the current setting resistor
on the two drivers to be changed.
The outputs of the current
sink drivers are controlled by data loaded into the driver
IC over a serial input. The two driver ICs are cascaded so
the PIC simply clocks in 25 bits of data to control the LEDs
in each layer then sets the respective layer driver output
high. The board uses the SOIC package variant of the
STP16CP05 but this part is available in PDIP package (see
here for more info)
The capacitors provide
power supply decoupling. C4 and C5 in particular are
important and should be tantalum bead types located close to
the driver ICs
Diode D1 allows the PIC
programmer when attached to J1 (ICSP header) to detect power
on the target board while preventing it from actually
powering the target. Depending on your particular
programmer this diode may be omitted altogether, but if in
doubt fit it. The power LED is not critical, you can use
almost any 3mm LED for this, or omit it altogether if you
don't want a power indicator.
Pin header JP2 provide
+5volt and Gnd connections and also brings out the PIC I/O
port pins RA4 and RA5. RA4 is also connected to the switch
S1 on the PCB. These are made available for those of you
who want to add additional features to the software.
Power to the circuit is
provided through the DC input jack J1. This should be
connected to a 5 volt regulated power supply capable of
supplying at least 1.5 amp. The power supply should also be
able to maintain regulation while the load switches between
15mA to around 700ma every 2mS, all the plug-top style ones
in my workshop work fine but if you have problems this is
something to check.
The J1 (ICSP header) allows
in-circuit programming of the PIC microcontroller. It will
work with the genuine Microchip PICKit2 programmer and I've
also tested with several clone versions of the PICkit2. I
don't test with any other types of programmer.
PCB
Layout
The circuit has been
designed to fit onto a single sided 160mm x 100mm eurocard
size PCB. The single sided design makes home production of
the PCB straightforward.
To make it even easier, you
can now buy the PCB or short kit containing all the parts
except for the main cube body LEDs from the
on-line store
Component List
You can buy all the parts
needed to build this project from most component suppliers
world wide. In the UK you can get everything except the
16F688 from Rapid Online and I've included a parts list with
their part numbers below. You can also buy a kit of
parts from the Online-Store
What LEDs to use
The
overall effect of the LED cube can vary enormously, so
choosing and using the right type of LEDs is important.
This section gives some tips and suggestions on the type of
LEDs to use.
For the main cube LEDs you
can use virtually any 5mm or 3mm LEDs you want. Some LEDs
are better suited for use in a cube than others so here are
some tips.
In my opinion the cubes
made with 3mm LEDs in diffused packages work best, there is more space within
the cube body which makes it visually more effective and the
diffused body distributes the light better.
Water clear packaged LEDs
are not very effective since the LED illuminates the one
directly above it. High brightness LEDs are even worse in
this respect and LEDs with 15o viewing angle are
hopeless in my experience. LEDs with outputs around
50-150mcd seem to work quite well.
If you can get LEDs in a
milky white diffused package these are ideal, however they
are generally not that easy to find.
If you have LEDs in a clear
package you can diffuse them using
Plasti-Kote Glass Frosting spray. This works quite well but
don't spray the LEDs until they've been assembled in the jig
otherwise the jig rubs the coating off the side of the LEDs.
One difficulty I've found
is that you can find two different LEDs that on spec' appear
to have similar light output, but when you compare them in
use one is much brighter.
Therefore if you can it's worth experimenting
with different LEDs before assembling an entire cube. You
can put together eight LEDs in to a 2 x 2 x 2 cube; connect it
into one corner of the driver PCB to get an idea of whether
a particular LED is going to work effectively.
Finally, the cube needs 125
LEDs, buy a couple of extra ones so you have spares in case you get a
faulty one, lose one etc.
You can try a cube with
either of the LEDs below which are available from
RapidOnline, alternative colours are available, check the
website, but these were a reasonable specification vs.
price. Also check out sellers on e-Bay for cheap LEDs.
(The 3mm orange LEDs used on the cube in
the top video came from
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/component-shop, item is ORANGE
Standard 3mm LEDs Pack of 50 )
- L-7104YD MINIATURE 3MM
PURE ORANGE LED (RC) Part No 55-0097
- L-7113ID LED 5MM RED
DIFF 45MCD (RC) Part No 55-0155
All Rapid
parts/descriptions correct at 23-February 2009. You should
check part# and descriptions are correct when ordering in
case I've made a mistake transferring them onto this page.
|
Component |
Description |
Part # |
| R1,2
(order 1 pack) |
PK 100
680R 0.25W CF RESISTOR (RC)
(see note 2 below) |
62-0366 |
| R3 (order 1
pack) |
PACK 100 10K 0.25W
CF RESISTOR (RC) |
62-0394 |
| R4 (order 1
pack) |
PK 100 270R 0.25W
CF RESISTOR (RC) |
62-0356 |
| |
|
|
| C1,2,3 |
100N 2.5MM X7R DIELEC.CERAMIC (RC) |
08-1015 |
| C4,5,6 |
10UF 10V TANTALUM
BEAD 5MM (RC) |
11-0624 |
| |
|
|
| Cube LEDs
(order 125+) |
see text above |
- |
| D1 (see note 1) |
BAT85 SCHOTTKY
DIODE 30V DO-34 (RC) |
47-3108 |
| Q1,2,3,4,5
* |
BC635 TRAN NPN 45V
1A TO92 TRUSEMI RC |
81-0075 |
| IC1** |
PIC16F688-I/P
MICROCONTROLLER (RC) |
n/a
(see below) |
| IC2,3
(see note 2) |
STP16CP05M SO24 16
BIT LED DRIVER (RC)
See below for alternative parts |
82-0125 |
| LED1 |
L-7104GD MINIATURE
3MM GREEN LED (RC) |
55-0105 |
| socket for IC1 |
14 PIN 0.3IN DIL
SKT (RC) ALSO 22-0132 |
22-0155 |
| J1 |
2.1
PCB DC POWER SOCKET (RC) |
20-0970 |
| JP1
(see note 1) |
5 WAY
R/A SINGLE ROW PLUG (RC) |
22-0710 |
| JP2
(see note 1) |
4 W
SINGLE ROW PCB HEADER PLUG RC |
22-0505 |
| S1 |
TACTILE SWITCH 6X6MM HEIGHT 5MM (RC) |
78-0621 |
| LED
matrix sockets |
32 WAY
TURNED PIN SIL SOCKET(RC) |
22-1703 |
| Power
supply |
5V
1.5A MINI PLUGTOP SW MODE PSU RC |
85-2955 |
note 1:
JP1, JP2 and D1 are not required to build a working LED
cube. These parts are not supplied in the kit.
*
You can use BC635, BC637 or BC639 as an alternative for the
transistors Q1-Q5. BC635 seem cheapest at December
2009.
**
Rapid Online don't stock the
16F688 but you can buy it from
Farnell,
part # 9760563 , 8BIT FLASH MCU, 16F688, DIP14. You can
also buy a pre-programmed 16F688 from the
Picprojects online shop.
note 2:
Alternatives to the STP16CP05
The
LED Cube kit is supplied with the
Catalyst Semiconductor (ON Semiconductor) CAT4016W-T1
part.
The CAT4016 uses a different current setting ratio to the STP16CP05 so you MUST
use 1K8 resistors instead of the 680R shown on
the schematic. The kit is supplied with the
required 1K8 resistors.
CAT4016W-T1 is
available from Farnell, order code
1656115
|
 |
If
you want to build the driver on prototype board
Farnell sell the PDIP version of the STP16CP05, part #
1292453,
Allegro Microsystems make the A6276 which based on spec'
appears to be a pin compatible alternative to the STP16CP05
and is also available in PDIP and SOIC packages.
Other equivalents based on
spec' are Toshiba
TB62726AFNA and Macroblock
MBI5025
(based on spec' means
I've read the datasheets and they appear equivalent but I
haven't constructed a cube using any of these alternatives)
Power Supply Mishaps
We've sold lots of kits for
the LED cube and on the whole there have been no problems
getting the kit to work.
However, a number of times
now people have connected the wrong power supply to the
board, in several cases they had it working with the correct
5 volt power supply but they have just picked up the wrong
PSU by mistake and damaged a working board. I've done
it myself so I speak from experience.
Firstly here's a tip. Put some tape or other marking
on the end of the power jack lead to make it stand out from
all the other DC power jacks you may have around. This
will help avoid picking the wrong one by mistake.
The original board design
does not have protection for over-voltage or reverse supply
connection. Any voltage above 5 volts, or a reversed power
connection will destroy components on the board.
- The CAT4016 drivers
chips IC2/3 are the most likely to fail.
- If the voltage applied
is >10 volts it will damage or destroy the tantalum
capacitors C4/5/6
If one shows visible signs of damage, replace all of
them.
- The PIC
microcontroller is a little more robust and may well
survive a few seconds, but given a
high enough voltage or long enough and it too will fail.
Because the PIC
microcontroller has input protection diodes connected to the
power rails, the board may actually survive a reversed power
connection. This does however depend on the power
supply and the length of time it's connected so expect the
worst.
Finally, if you do have a
power supply accident, contact us and we can sort out
replacement components for you at a very reasonable cost.
Construction photos:
Soldering the surface mount
parts and assembling the LEDs into a cube are not jobs for a
novice electronic kit builder, don't attempt this project
unless you are confident of your ability and have the
necessary skills and equipment.
Whatever your ability
level please take time to read through this section once
before starting construction and refer to it again during
construction. You are also advised to refer to the
schematic diagram.
Assembly is in two stages;
control PCB and LED cube. It's easiest to assemble the LEDs
into a cube using the PCB to hold it in place so I suggest
the PCB is assembled first.
1.
The controller PCB
2.
The LED cube
Assembling the
controller PCB
Fig.1
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Fig .2
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Fig. 3
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Fig. 1 Check the PCB
to make sure all the holes have been drilled, and look for
any etching faults, bridges, breaks etc. before commencing
with the assembly.
Fig. 2 The design
has deliberately been kept to a single sided PCB, however
this has meant 16 wire links are needed to interconnect
tracks on the copper side. You should start by installing
these wires.
Fig. 3 The
silk screen overlay for the PCB doesn't show the
location of the 16 link wires. The location of the links
is indicated by the yellow lines over layed on the
photo.
(download PDF version of
this image
 )
|
Fig.4
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Fig .5
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Fig. 6
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Fig. 4/5 Snap the SIL socket in to individual pins
(use a knife) and then solder one in to
each of the 25 LED holes and 5 layer drive connections.
(you can of course solder the LEDs of the cube directly to
the PCB, however it makes repair and removal of the cube
difficult should you have a fault or wish to swap cubes)
(The kit includes a 32 way SIL socket strip, you only
need 30 so you have two spare)
Fig. 6 Install the
resistors.
Colour value bands on the
resistor body are:
R1/R2 are 1K8 (brown-grey-black-brown-brown)
R3 is 10K (brown-black-orange-gold)
R4 is 270R (red-violet-brown-gold)
The Short Cube kit includes
two 1K8 resistors for R1/R2 for use the the CAT4016 LED
driver IC's.
D1 is not included as it is not required
to build the working cube from the kit.
|
Fig.7
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Fig .8
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Fig. 9
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|
Fig. 7 Install the
capacitors. Note that the Tantalum capacitors C4/5/6 must
be fitted the correct way round. There will normally be a
vertical line and/or '+' symbol on body of the capacitor above the
positive lead and one lead is normally
longer than the other; the long lead is the '+' positive lead.
Fig. 8 Install the 5
transistors, again ensuring they are positioned as shown on
the overlay.
Fig.
9 Finish the upper side of the PCB by installing
the LED, switch, pin headers and sockets. When
installing the LED fit the cathode lead into the hole marked
'Ca' on the PCB. The LED cathode lead is the shorter
of the two leads.
At this point, apply 5
volts to the DC input jack and take note of the following:
- The DC jack requires a
centre +ve input connection. As there is no
reverse polarity protection on the board you must ensure
the power supply connector is correctly wired or you
will destroy the LED driver IC's.
- You must use a 5 volt
regulated DC power supply.
Use a multimeter to ensure
there is 5 volts present between pins 1 and 14 of the IC1
socket. If not find the fault and correct it before
proceeding.
|
Fig.10
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Fig .11
|
Fig. 12
|
| Fig.
10/11 Views of the assembled PCB from different
angles.
Fig. 12
Note the polarity marking on the Tantalum
capacitor C5. Also the orientation of the PIC16F688.
|
Fig.13
 |
Fig.14
 |
Fig.15
 |
|
Fig.13 You should now tin with solder the PCB
tracks that carry the 5 volt supply and the connections from
the transistors to the layer connector pins as shown in this
photo. On the PCB supplied with the kit, the wide
tracks without the green solder mask over them all need
tinning. You only need a thin layer of solder.
Fig. 14 Now install
IC2/3 to the copper side of the PCB. You must ensure the IC
is fitted the correct way round. The photo shows a small
dimple on the top of the IC package (bottom left). This
denotes pin 1.
(The LED cube kit is
supplied with the alternative CAT4016 LED driver)
Carefully align and centre
the package over the solder pads, then solder the corner
lead on one side. Check the package is still aligned and
then solder the opposite corner on the other side of the
package. If it's still aligned, proceed to solder the
remaining leads. Repeat this with the second IC. Check
there are no solder bridges between any of the leads. If you
do get a bridge use some solder wick (copper braid) to
remove it.
Tip:
I solder SMD parts with a 0.8mm chisel bit and 22swg solder; 18swg solder and/or a
larger bit are much more likely to lead to bridges and
shorts. With care you can easily solder each pin
individually and make a neat, clean job of it. The PCB you can buy from the
online store has a solder
resist mask which greatly reduces the chances of bridging,
though you still need to take care.
You may have read elsewhere a technique for soldering the
surface mount parts where a large soldering iron bit is used
to cover all the pins in lots of solder then the excess is
removed using solder wick or some other method.
DON'T DO THIS.
Fig. 15 Once both
ICs have been soldered in to place you should give the
copper side of the board a thorough visual inspection to
check for solder bridges between pads and tracks. It's a
good idea to spray the copper side of the PCB with a
conformal coating once assembly is complete to protect
against corrosion. If you've bought the PCB for this project
from the online store it already has a protective coating so
this isn't necessary.
Install PCB standoff or
spacers into the four mounting holes at the corners of the
PCB. These should provide enough clearance to ensure the
board isn't resting on the two Surface Mount ICs.
You should also install the
PIC16F688 into the IC1 socket at this point making sure it
is fitted the correct way round.
Power Supply
WARNING: You must use a 5 volt regulated power supply.
Connect a 5 volt, 1.0 amp
power supply to the DC power input jack J1. The DC
jack requires a centre
+ve input connection.
The power supply should be rated for 1 amp or greater, i.e.
1.5 amp would also be fine to use but 0.5 amp isn't.
The power LED1 should light. Measure
the voltage between pins 1 and 14 of IC1 again to ensure
there is 5 volts present.
As there is no reverse polarity protection on the board you
must ensure the power supply connector is correctly wired or
you will damage and destroy the LED driver IC's and other
parts.
If you apply a higher
voltage to the board you will destroy the PIC and driver
ICs. While the PIC is easy to swap out, removing the
two surface mount ICs will be very difficult and likely to
result in damage to the PCB.
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|
Assembling the LED Cube
It takes me about 01h30m to
assemble the LEDs in a cube and that doesn't include
assembly of the main PCB so you'll want to allow yourself
plenty of time. Patience is your friend on this one.
To assemble the LEDs
into a cube you will need to make a simple jig
using a piece of MDF or similar material (see photo
right). You can download a PDF template for the jig
here.
LED Jig template
 |
 |
5mm LED cube |
Fig.1
|
Fig .2
|
Fig. 3
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|
Fig 1. Carefully
bend the leads on each LED as shown. The LED cathode should
be cranked out so it is aligned with the side of the LED
package. This is more important with 5mm LEDs than 3mm
LEDs which have a much narrower package. The anode should be bent to an angle of 90o.
Take care bending the leads to avoid stressing them as they
enter the LED body.
The fig 1. photo should
only be used as a reference for forming the leads, not to
identify the cathode/anode terminals. Normally
the shorter lead is the cathode, but you should verify this
before assembling the cube.
Fig 2. The LED
anodes run horizontally around the jig and are connected
together. The LED cathodes are perpendicular to the jig.
Install five LEDs into one row of holes as shown. The last
LED should have its anode lead bent round so it connects
with the LED in the next row. Solder the anode of each LED
to the next LED.
Fig 3. Using a 5
volt power supply and resistor (anything from 120 to 330
ohms will work), test each LED to make sure it is not faulty
or installed with anode/cathode terminals reversed. With a
125 LEDs to assemble getting one the wrong way round as the
tedium sets in is quite likely!
WARNING. If you skip this test and get the
LEDs assembled into the cube then find an LED isn't working
it will be extremely difficult to correct it.
|
Fig.4
|
Fig .5
|
Fig. 6
|
|
Fig 4. Install LEDs
into the next row and solder their anodes together.
Fig 5/6. Connect the
anode terminal of the right most LED to the LED in the next
row. You will also have the anode lead from the LED to the
left meeting at this point. Solder all three leads together
as shown making sure the lead from the LED on the previous
row clears the vertical cathode lead.
|
Fig.7
|
Fig
.8
|
Fig. 9
|
|
Fig 7. Continue to
install LEDs in to each of the rows, soldering and testing
as you go.
Fig 8. With all five
rows completed solder a wire across all the rows to hold
the layer in shape. This wire also serves as an electrical
connection. Note how the wire goes over-and-under the LED
anode leads.
Carefully remove the
assembled layer from the jig and put to one side. Repeat the previous steps
for each of the five layers.
|
Fig.10
|
Fig .11
|
Fig. 12
(1280 x 960
resolution)
|
|
Fig 9-12. These
pictures show the general arrangement of the LED cube.
Assemble the cube by
inserting the cathode leads of the first LED layer into the
sockets on the PCB.
Next attach the second
layer to the first. The best way to do this is lie the PCB
on its side. Solder the four corner LEDs of the second
layer to the first layer.
With the four corners
soldered, put the PCB flat on the work surface. Next work
around the outside of the cube soldering the two layers
together. Then work your way in to the middle of the cube
soldering each LED to the one below. It's a bit fiddly
getting into the middle of the cube but not impossible.
All the time keep looking
across the LEDs from several directions to ensure the LEDs
in the upper layer are level and aligned with those in the
layer below; make any adjustments as needed. If you don't
keep the layers level as you go the whole cube will be
distorted by the time you get to the very top layer.
Repeat this until all five
layers are connected together to form the cube.
|
Fig.13
|
|
|
Fig 13. Once all the
layers are in place attach the five wires to the layer drive
sockets as shown in the photo. Ensure the wires do not
short on each other as they rise up through the cube. The
sockets are spaced apart on the PCB to help with this.
The connections are labeled L1 to L5, L1 being the
lowest layer, L5 being the top.
|
Example
of cube constructed with 3mm amber LEDs.
To construct the cube with
3mm LEDs a second template was printed and then fixed to the
5mm jig with an offset. This was then drilled with 3mm
holes to make a single jig that can be used for assembling
both 3mm and 5mm cubes. In practice the body of most 3mm
LEDs seems to be about 2.9mm or less so the LED sits a bit
lose in 3mm hole. You might want to drill at 2.5mm and ream
the holes out, frankly I couldn't be bothered but it is
easier to solder it altogether if the LED body is held by
the jig.
5mm Cube
with green LEDs
Operation
The code supplied with the
LED Cube kit is designed to run standalone without user
intervention. (This code can also be download from the
Firmware section)
At power on it displays the
text 'PICPROJECTS' and then continues to run through a range
of randomly selected animation effects. If
the S1 switch is held down at power-on it will skip the text
display.
To modify or develop your
own animation effects you will need to modify the source
code, reassemble it and reprogram the PIC using a separate
PIC programmer. Details for the drawing processor can
be found here
Changing the startup
text display
If you want to personalise
the text that it displays at startup, here's how.
You will need:
- The free MPLAB IDE
software installed on your computer. A
short guide to downloading and using MPLAB can be
found here.
- A PIC Programmer
hardware device e.g. Microchip PICkit2
Download the ledCubeC.zip
file from the firmware section below
and put all the files into a directory on your computer.
Open the files ledCubeC.asm
and CubeProgram.inc
Find the section in the
CubeProgram.inc file shown in the screen dump right.
Each character is animated
using two instructions, for example the letter 'P' is done
using these two instructions.
LDR R0,
'P'
JSR WRITE
To change the text simply
edit the file, changing the characters; you can add or
remove the LDR/JSR instruction pairs if you need more or
less characters.
LDR
RZ,4
MSET
LDR R0,
'H'
JSR WRITE
LDR R0,
'E'
JSR WRITE
LDR R0,
'L'
JSR WRITE
LDR R0,
'L'
JSR WRITE
LDR R0,
'0'
JSR WRITE
RET
In the example above the
text 'HELLO' will be animated at start-up instead of 'PICPROJECTS'
Once the CubeProgram.inc
file has been modified save it. Then select the
ledcubeC.asm file and reassemble it. The resulting
ledcubeC.HEX file will then need to be programmed into the
PIC.
You can go back to the
original code at anytime by downloading the ledcubeC.HEX
file and re-programming the PIC.
Firmware
The HEX file is ready to
program directly into a PIC 16F688. The zip file contains
the source code which you can modify or just view to see how
it works. If you are going to modify the code I recommend
you download and install the
Microchip MPLAB IDE which will allow you to edit, modify
and program the PIC seamlessly.
Not got a PIC programmer? Buy a
pre-programmed PIC from the
on-line shop
|
Description |
Filename |
Download link |
|
Source code for 16F688 |
ledcubeC.zip, v1.0.2,
12/03/2009 |
download |
| HEX
file ready to program into the PIC |
ledcubeC.HEX, v1.0.2, 12/03/2009
(animations 13/04/2009) |
download
checksum 0x579C |
Description and programming
details for the
LED Cube Drawing Processor.
If you need a PIC
Programmer I strongly recommend the
Microchip PICKit
2, this is available from suppliers world wide or direct
from Microchip. It's reasonably cheap to buy and reliable.
Contact us:
 |
